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Looks-wise, the watch that comes the closest to an all-steel model is now the ref. 116509, which is cast in solid 18k white gold and has the price tag to prove it.That means a delve into the archives is the only avenue still open should you want one, and it is the previous generation that is proving the most affordable. The ‘Zenith’ Daytona ref. 16520, powered by the fabled El Primero, is still the gateway into steel Cosmograph Daytona ownership.Of course, the word ‘affordable’ is all relative. Prices start at around the $20,000 mark, which is a hefty slice of anyone’s money. Yet beyond being one of the most handsome and capable models ever made, any Rolex Daytona represents perhaps the surest investments watch collecting has to offer.It’s a tough call, but the starkly austere Explorer might well be the watch that has changed the least (visually) over its 70-year run. That is even for a manufacture that updates aesthetics at the glacial pace that Rolex does. Every reference, from the prototype Pre-Explorer ref. 6150 from 1952 up to the last of the ref. 114270s in 2010, have been simple three handers, with the beautifully legible white on black 3/6/9 dials, housed in a 36mm case.Then along came the ref. 214270, identical in the detailing but the first example to grow beyond the dimensions in 58-years, measuring 39mm. It increased in size for the same reason as the Datejust – fashions demanded it – but unlike that watch, it became the only option available.That is no bad thing. The Explorer is perhaps the last of the true tool watches in the Rolex catalog. There is nothing about any iteration of the watch that is designed to look flashy or draw attention to itself, and a few extra millimeters doesn’t change that. The new Explorer is basically the old Explorer, and whichever you choose will come down to whether your wrist size suits one or the other.Its strength has always been in its simplicity, and it remains one of the best value for money prospects on the pre-owned Rolex market. $5,000-$6,000 is the buy-in point for a well set up example of the ref. 114270 or, if you fancy going the real vintage route, the celebrated ref. 1016 (personal timepiece of James Bond author Ian Fleming) starts at a little over twice that. Tough, elegant and perfectly built, the Explorer has always stayed true to Rolex’s roots.

In the world of luxury product acquisition, there are few things more distressing to the mind of a passionate collector than the thought of harm coming to their valued possessions. Yes, nothing in this realm can hold a candle to health or the well-being of one’s loved ones, but these small treasures, often rare or unique (and certainly expensive) hold a special place in the heart of one who has dedicated their time and effort to make them theirs.I am often asked if it is important to insure a collection of used luxury watches. In fact, I am asked it more often then makes conscionable sense to me, because the answer is simple: Yes, yes you should. And more to the point, if you own a luxury watch like a Rolex Submariner (let alone if you own numerous luxury watches) and you’re asking that question, you should save your breath for the insurance provider on the other end of the phone.And that’s really the best place to start. In this digital age, it seems we’ve all become a bit interaction-shy, but with a complex and potentially serious situation like making an insurance claim, it is always best to have set-up your policy having talked directly to another human being – an expert in their field. You really should leave nothing to chance. Don’t be afraid to ask stupid questions – insurance is complicated and rules and regulations vary from country to country (massively) and occasionally, even from region to region. If you move to a new area, don’t just assume that your previous policy will port seamlessly. Check it out. Trust me: It’s worth it.Having lived most of my life in the UK and Germany, I have intimate personal experience with moving a watch collection across borders. And the differences are stark. Some things are easier in some territories, and some things are harder, but the three things you should focus on first when looking into insuring your collection (or single watch) is the total value of your collection, how many “declarable” models you will need to put on your policy, and how all of this can affect your remaining contents insurance.So let’s start with the first point. This is relatively simple. Add up the retail value of the watches in your collection. When doing this, make sure you collate invoices and receipts (if possible) into a physical and digital folder. Scan everything, stick it in a PDF and email a copy to yourself rather than keeping it on your hard-drive alone (it stands to reason that if your property gets turned over your laptop may go the same way as your watches).

Rolex has graduated from a watch brand into a seismic force to which the regular rules do not apply. While it is far (far) from guaranteed that any Rolex watch you buy will appreciate from the day you bought it, time is showing us that these models, both old and new, endure the fluctuations of the watch market very well indeed.And, in fact, buying a pre-owned model might well be the very best thing you can do in the case of Rolex. Many of the new professional models are simply unattainable without waiting an inordinate amount of time – or without paying an exorbitant grey market mark-up to skip the queue. Older professional models are available for prices below those of a new model, and present the chance to pick-up a potential classic while also expanding your knowledge of the crown.Part of the joy of the watchmaking game is getting to know the tiny ticker on your wrist. Buying modern watches because they are in vogue is all well and good, but it can sometimes be a bit of a rushed exercise (thanks to all that competition). A far nicer, and (in my opinion) rewarding way to pursue this hobby is to consciously decouple oneself from the pursuit of luxury, or status, or the latest trend, and instead put stock in the long road. Read about old models. Pore over their nuances. Allow yourself to appreciate how certain models and certain designs can somehow, almost inexplicably to a modern mind, encapsulate an era so perfectly. These wordless time capsules are worth seeking, as they can, in a single glance, remind us of a simpler time when things didn’t move so fast.My first Rolex was a Rolesor Datejust from 1985. I bought it pre-loved after finally managing to get over my thirst for Pepsi, and having hit the history books in search of inspiration. It cost me around $4,000 and it looked brand new but so satisfyingly anachronistic. Vintage is not for everyone, but before you dismiss it as an option, remember that whatever you like right now will be old someday soon. And it is only with the passing of time that we’re really able to understand what has managed to stand its test.

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