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The men’s Rolex Submariner was developed in 1953 and made its official debut during Basel Watch Fair the following year. One of the first dive watches to offer a 100-meter depth rating, the Submariner essentially paved the way for the modern dive watch as we know it today. Over the years, the Submariner has seen many notable upgrades, including the addition of a date display in the 1960s, the switch from acrylic to sapphire crystals in the late 1970s, and the change from radioactive tritium to photoluminescent lume in the 1990s. The Submariner was initially only available in stainless steel; a two-tone variant didn’t become available until 1984 via the ref. 16803.That brings us to the two examples that are featured here in today’s comparison video. The Rolex 16613 made its debut in 1988 and was the final aluminum bezel Submariner. The ref. 116613 was introduced in 2009 and features a completely redesigned feature set that swapped the aluminum bezel out for a tougher Cerachrom ceramic insert and features an all-new case and bracelet design. While both references are similar, they each bring a different aesthetic to the table.The Rolex Submariner 16613 was produced for over twenty years. During that time, it became available in many variations, including either a black or blue dial and bezel set, stunning champagne or silver “Serti” dials adorned with gems, lug holes on the case or no holes, and different luminous material on the dial. Two features that remain consistent among the reference variations are the two-tone steel and gold finish of the case and the aluminum insert on the bezel.With the unveiling of the modern 116613 Submariner in Yellow Rolesor (aka two-tone stainless steel and 18k yellow gold) came a newer-style “Super Case” which, despite offering the same 40mm diameter as the ref. 16613, appears slightly larger. The lugs and crown guard are wider, and the bezel received a new mounting design, giving the case a slightly more robust appearance and refined bezel action.

Date Sizes While the first sizes of the Datejust and the Date were 36mm and 34mm (respectively), Rolex did add more size options to both collections over the years. For instance, somewhat puzzlingly, Rolex has in the past produced the Lady-Datejust and the ladies’ Date with 26mm cases, and the mid-size Datejust and mid-size Date with 31mm case sizes. However, perhaps for greater clarity between the two models, Rolex has since discontinued all of the smaller Date versions and currently only makes the Date 34. Additionally, Rolex has also ceased making the Lady-Datejust 26, replacing it with the Lady-Datejust 28. Furthermore, over the course of the last decade, Rolex has also added larger options for the Datejust.Rolex Datejust SizesThe Rolex Datejust has always offered far more metal choices and different style options compared to the Rolex Date. Although there are some vintage and discontinued Date 34 models in solid gold and two-tone steel and gold, Rolex has now simplified the choices to just two: full stainless steel or stainless steel with a white gold fluted bezel, both of which have 34mm cases and are fitted with Oyster bracelets.

The Rolex Two-Tone Submariner 16613 is available on a flat-link Oyster bracelet with hollow 18 karat yellow gold center links and an Oysterlock clasp. Like other Submariner watches, the clasp on the ref. 16613 features a wetsuit extension system that allows the length of the bracelet to be adjusted on the fly to fit comfortably over wetsuits.Depending on the year of production, Submariner 16613 bracelets can be found with slight differences between their clasps, end-links, and wetsuit extension systems. Earlier examples will have hollow end-links, all-steel clasps, and stamped wetsuit extensions, while later-era 16613 Submariner bracelets will have solid end-links, a link-style extension system, and a clasp featuring a 18k yellow gold strip through the center.The ref. 16613 is the result of Rolex’s tireless quest for perfection. Its long production run has spawned several variations, making it a fun watch to “hunt” for on the pre-owned Rolex market. It’s also a popular choice for its stunning two-tone steel and gold finish, and it is an excellent option for anyone who seeks a gold Rolex sports watch without the hefty price tag that accompanies an all-gold watch.

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